{"id":368589,"date":"2025-07-19T12:27:34","date_gmt":"2025-07-19T10:27:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/germany.10magazine.com\/?p=368589"},"modified":"2025-07-21T16:04:28","modified_gmt":"2025-07-21T14:04:28","slug":"backstage-at-berlin-fashion-week-ss26-10-designers-share-their-honest-insights","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/germany.10magazine.com\/de\/backstage-at-berlin-fashion-week-ss26-10-designers-share-their-honest-insights\/","title":{"rendered":"Backstage at Berlin Fashion Week SS26: 10 Designers Share their Honest Insights"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Amid one of the warmest weeks of the year, Berlin Fashion Week (BFW) lit up the pavements of the German capital for SS26. To mark the occasion, we caught up with the illustrious Christiane Arp, who co-founded Fashion Council Germany<\/a> (FCG) back in 2015.<\/span><\/p>\n

She reminds us that those early days were a <\/span>t<\/span>ransformative time for the industry, with \u201cthe rise of e-commerce, social media and new digital platforms\u201d. A decade on, FCG\u2019s initial intent to focus on German design\u2019s craft, creativity and quality has remained steadfast. Establishing \u201cprogrammes that support designers and enhance their international visibility\u201d, the FCG gives space to \u201cuntold stories\u201d with an emphasis on emergent, local talents \u2014 showcasing \u201cfashion as a serious cultural asset within our society\u201d.<\/span><\/p>\n

The Berlin Senate recognises the importance of FCG\u2019s work. Once Mercedes-Benz\u2019s sponsorship of BFW was withdrawn in 2022, the Senate appointed the organisation to coordinate Berlin\u2019s fashion week \u2014 with the goal of \u201coffer[ing] something genuinely different\u201d. Arp knew this meant they \u201chad to support the designers not only financially but also through mentoring and guidance\u201d. With the financial backing this collaboration has facilitated, more inclusive initiatives like Berlin Contemporary Prize have been born.<\/span><\/p>\n

Of the 80 applicants this season\u2019s Berlin Contemporary Prize received, a panel of esteemed jury members chose 19 winners. The \u20ac25,000 award has also recently undergone an expansion, allowing for more international recipients. Reflecting on this development, Arp tells us, \u201cWe want like-minded brands and designers to feel welcome in Berlin because it is a city rooted in diversity, openness, and constant reinvention.\u201d And in this spirit, the distinctive value that BFW provides <\/span>enables designers to give space to their most sincere motivations \u2014 and to do so in community.<\/span><\/p>\n

With more international media attention than ever before, you\u2019ve likely already seen the looks that defined this season\u2019s runways, but backstage \u2014 with the likes of Orange Culture, Palmwine Icecream, David Koma, Ioannes, Marke, Richert Beil, Sia Arnika, GmbH, Lueder and Ottolinger \u2014 we delved deeper into dialogues with key designers as they revealed essential tips, humble honesty, key cultural insights and industry insider knowledge, sharing with us the possibilities and struggles encapsulated in the fashion landscape.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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DAVID KOMA<\/b><\/p>\n

David Komakhidze \u2014 partner of Berlin\u2019s PR agency, Reference Studios \u2014 boasts a remarkable career that started in London, a place \u201cwhere creativity always [came] first, encourag[ing] boldness and experimentation\u201d. In Paris, as creative director of Mugler, he felt the \u201cheartbeat\u201d of \u201clegacy and precision\u201d permeate its Fashion Weeks; whereas in Milan, with Blumarine, he feels \u201cglamour.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Within this international landscape, he applauds BFW, stating, \u201cBerlin has an honesty and edge [that is] incredibly inspiring.\u201d For him, \u201cShowing [here] is a way to tap into a different cultural current and reach a new kind of audience.\u201d He also feels the experimental, subversive and unique qualities of the city \u201caligned with the energy of [their] menswear line\u201d, offering a \u201cspace that felt new\u201d.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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IOANNES<\/b><\/p>\n

Hailing from the acclaimed Central Saint Martins in London, Johannes Bo\u0308hl Cronau started Ioannes in Paris in 2019, before relocating to Berlin during the pandemic. Having survived the struggles of launching an independent label in a fashion epicentre, he says, \u201cParis showed me the weight of the industry and how easy it is to disappear inside. London taught me to explode, and Berlin teaches me to integrate.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Wanting his \u201cwork to touch, not just impress\u201d, what drew him here was Berlin as the \u201cunfinished sentence \u2014 a home that could hold both space and time\u201d. The city\u2019s openness, rawness and lack of diurnal distractions and demands grant focus, while leaving room for \u201cprocess and imperfection\u201d. With conveniences such as \u201cless stress between showroom appointments [and] shows of mega brands\u201d, a designer\u2019s individual message can be centred. He states, \u201cHere, I feel I can show a collection that\u2019s both deeply personal and socially aware, without having to over-explain.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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OTTOLINGER<\/b><\/p>\n

Swiss duo Christa Bo\u0308sch and Cosima Gadient launched Ottolinger back in 2015. Of the capital 10 years ago, they tell us, \u201cBerlin gave us space \u2014 to work, to fail, to invent. It was raw, messy, affordable and full of people building things from scratch. It was political, experimental, underground.\u201d Now, having shown at Paris Fashion Week since 2018, the iconic Berlin brand has returned. They say, \u201cParis is where the system is, so we wanted to confront it. It\u2019s where technique, tradition and legacy live.\u201d But this doesn\u2019t mean they\u2019re retreating. They add, \u201cIt\u2019s about reactivating the roots.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Discussing their collaboration with Reference Studios\u2019 Intervention, they celebrate the \u201cfluid, open, unbureaucratic\u201d nature of a programme based on intuition more than industry. Instead of feeling like a trade event, building with the team there \u201cfeels more like a happening. The energy is: show up, do it your way, no permission needed\u201d.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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ORANGE CULTURE<\/b><\/p>\n

Adebayo Oke-Lawal launched his label in Lagos in 2010\/2011, and by 2014 it was already a LVMH prize finalist. Having shown in London and New York with the purpose of injecting itself into global fashion discourse while \u201cchallenging narrow definitions of African design\u201d, his brand has always championed inclusivity, challenged societal norms and emphasised ethical practices. While the lessons learnt in these fashion capitals reiterated how \u201cauthenticity always wins in the long run\u201d, coming to Berlin \u201cencourages\u201d it \u2014 a city which represents, for him, \u201cradical honesty\u201d.<\/span><\/p>\n

His essential advice is to remain true to yourself despite inevitable pushback. He says, \u201cThe industry is full of noise; trends, metrics, opinions, but your purpose is your anchor.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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PALMWINE ICECREAM<\/b><\/p>\n

Launching in 2018, and based in Accra and London, Kusi Kubi says Berlin holds meaning not only as the place where his creations reached a wider audience, but also for the resonance he finds with the city\u2019s artistic dynamism, fostering a desire to create something more \u201cpersonal and intimate\u201d. At BFW, \u201cthere\u2019s a growing momentum, a push for new voices and ideas, and an openness that feels exciting\u201d.<\/span><\/p>\n

Showing again after winning last season\u2019s prize as well, Kusi Kubi relates to us the synthesis of preparing a runway as a grant recipient and the impact it\u2019s had on his creative vision. He says, \u201cIt\u2019s helped shape not just how I present the brand but how I think about its future.\u201d The Berlin Contemporary offered far-reaching visibility and connected him with other creatives, while \u201creinforcing the importance of staying true to the community and story behind the clothes\u201d.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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MARKE<\/b><\/p>\n

Mario Keine\u2019s palpably poetic label has just won the \u20ac25,000 prize for the fourth time, thereby securing funding \u201cfor a full show in Berlin\u201d. He tells us that the recognition and visibility afforded by the prize is remarkable when considering \u201chigh-ranked guests\u201d. With the added international attention of buyers and press, he can use this spotlight to showcase in a \u201cholistic\u201d manner that lasts. He explains, \u201cIt allows me to create 15 minutes of a world and transport a feeling around my work. A picture is a picture. We\u2019re over-flooded by them and they rarely leave an impact.\u201d While a runway \u201ccreates an audience and a community\u201d.<\/span><\/p>\n

Further lauding the Berlin fashion scene, he credits its ethos of collaboration as underpinning small labels\u2019 success. The exchange of contacts and experiences between brands enables them to \u201cgrow sustainably\u201d, while \u201cavoiding mistakes, but also forming shared memories\u201d. <\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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RICHERT BEIL<\/b><\/p>\n

Berlin mainstays Michele Beil and Jale Richert were presenting runways long before the launch of the Berlin Contemporary Prize, which they again won. Likening their approach to the prize application to their manner in handling collections, they tell us they do so \u201cwith clarity, and without adapting [their] practice to fit a format\u201d. With this uncompromising integrity as a constant, they further explain, \u201cWe presented where we are, what drives us and what direction we want to continue pursuing. The focus was not on creating something new for the sake of it, but on showing the consistency and evolution of our work.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

With more than a decade under their belt, they have now opened their first shop, which hosted this season\u2019s collection \u2014 where \u201ccontinuity\u201d and cohesion are central tenets. They say, \u201cThe runway has always been a way for us to communicate the atmosphere around the work. Opening our own space is an extension of that. It allows us to host the brand in a more permanent way and to make the values visible beyond a single moment.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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SIA ARNIKA<\/b><\/p>\n

Sia Arnika\u2019s eponymous label \u2014 famed for its memorable runways \u2014 just put on its fifth physical show this season. Awarded the \u20ac25,000 Berlin Contemporary Prize, Arnika explains that the base layer cost is covered, but \u201cthoughtful, aligned partnerships\u201d are still paramount for the transportive setups the brand strives for. Emphasising the significance such a mode of storytelling has, her runways focus on \u201ccasting, light, sound, movement, emotion, tension, memory\u201d. And as her production has evolved, further progress has been spurred. She says, \u201cThe biggest shift has been having a team that I trust completely.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Her hot tips for young designers dreaming of starting their own brand are, \u201cKnow your craft. Romanticise the work \u2014 but stay grounded. Be obsessed, but be kind \u2014 to yourself and to others. And don\u2019t wait for the right conditions. Just start.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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GMBH<\/b><\/p>\n

Since their stirring BFW debut a year ago, Benjamin Huseby and Serhat Is\u0327\u0131k point out the perks of being where their own community is, which offers them \u201ca great sense of support\u201d. While the Berlin Contemporary Prize \u201ccovers only a small part\u201d of a runway of their calibre, pragmatically, they say, it\u2019s a lot more relaxed being home \u201cafter a long day of castings and fittings\u201d.<\/span><\/p>\n

Sharing their tips for the burgeoning scene here in Berlin, they say, \u201cOne issue is lack of experience with producing fashion shows,\u201d so event production agencies are a huge boon. While \u201cstaging a show is very technical and specific\u201d, they succeeded in bringing their close production partners Experiential\/H from Paris to Berlin this time. And being able to work closely, such as they did with Intervention, on a location and platform certainly also has its advantages. Of course, their strong artistic team is undeniable too; from immersive set design and memorable movement direction to striking casting and standout styling \u2014 they generate an atmosphere unlike anything else at BFW.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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LUEDER<\/b><\/p>\n

Marie Lueder has delivered six runways between London and Berlin in the last year and a half \u2014 a prolific achievement that seems to be rooted in her love of the format. She tells us of her process, \u201cMy work is very much guided by show concepts and then I build the collection for it.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

As a consistent Berlin Contemporary Prize winner, she expresses gratitude for the ongoing \u201copportunity to work with incredible artists and creatives in a new simulation every time\u201d. The \u2018label\u2019 of the prize also resulted in a push for the brand\u2019s textile innovations, as it \u201creceived material sponsorship from iconic places\u201d, like Tintoria Emiliana, Pointex, and Stratasys.<\/span><\/p>\n

Her tips for applying to (and winning) such a competitive contest: \u201cYou develop an intriguing concept which is fitting to Berlin Fashion Week, have enough stockists, and include interesting collaborators.\u201d And for the young aspiring designers, \u201cYou need to be obsessed. [It\u2019s] really hard.\u201d \u2014 advice we heard more than once in these interviews. <\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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As we have seen, stepping into the unique world that BFW unleashes means embracing the imperfect, the conditions to create something new, and the liberation to do so with authentic, unconstrained style.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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Creative Director <\/span><\/i>CHARLOTTE GINDREAU<\/b><\/p>\n

Photographer <\/span><\/i>ISOTTA ACQUATI<\/b><\/p>\n

Writer <\/span><\/i>SANDEE WOODSIDE<\/b><\/p>\n

Photographer\u2019s Assistant <\/span><\/i>ANASTASIJA KOCEVSKA<\/b>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Fashion Assistant <\/span><\/i>IKIU CAPOU SIRIPANGNO<\/b><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Als ich Sia Arnika anrufe, strahlt die Designerin. Es ist ein \u00fcberraschend sonniger Morgen Anfang Februar in Berlin und sie sagt: \u201eEs ist der erste Tag, an dem ich nicht um sechs Uhr morgens aufstehen musste, weil ich eine Kollektion fertigstellen muss, also f\u00fchle ich mich super.\u201c Am Wochenende zuvor hatte sie ihre AW25-Kollektion auf der Berliner Modewoche vorgestellt. \u201eIch bin die ganze Zeit \u00fcber erstaunlich ruhig geblieben \u2013 selbst wenn ein gro\u00dfer Eisberg vor mir liegt, bin ich mir sicher, dass wir es schaffen werden, rechtzeitig auszuweichen.\u201c<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1490,"featured_media":410346,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":"","_wpscp_schedule_draft_date":"","_wpscp_schedule_republish_date":"","_wpscppro_advance_schedule":false,"_wpscppro_advance_schedule_date":"","_wpscppro_dont_share_socialmedia":null,"_wpscppro_custom_social_share_image":0,"_facebook_share_type":"default","_twitter_share_type":"default","_linkedin_share_type":"default","_pinterest_share_type":"default","_linkedin_share_type_page":"","_instagram_share_type":"default","_medium_share_type":"default","_threads_share_type":"","_google_business_share_type":"","_selected_social_profile":[],"_wpsp_enable_custom_social_template":false,"_wpsp_social_scheduling":{"enabled":false,"datetime":null,"platforms":[],"status":"template_only","dateOption":"today","timeOption":"now","customDays":"","customHours":"","customDate":"","customTime":"","schedulingType":"absolute"},"_wpsp_active_default_template":true},"categories":[876],"tags":[1094,1087,30,1093],"season":[],"class_list":["post-368589","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","tag-backstage","tag-berlin-fashion-week","tag-fashion-week","tag-ss26"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nBackstage at Berlin Fashion Week SS26: 10 Designers Share their Honest Insights - 10 Magazine Germany<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Amid one of the warmest weeks of the year, Berlin Fashion Week (BFW) lit up the pavements of the German capital for SS26. 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