24 March 2026 |
Paris was alive with anticipation this season, fuelled by the momentum of the historic debuts that defined Spring 2026, as many designers returned for their sophomore efforts and third-run collections. A romantic revival swept the Fall/Winter 2026 runways, marked by the return of the peplum and the commanding over-the-knee boot, soft fabrics met heavier textures seamlessly balancing sensuality and structure.
Here are 10 standout moments that defined the week.
Chanel Focused on Transformation
For Fall/Winter 2026 Matthieu Blazy examined one of Gabrielle Chanel’s famous fashion quotes, “Be a caterpillar by day and a butterfly by night,” to create a collection that focused on transformation and. A display of evocative designs that hinted at practicality in everyday life but with a touch of fantasy. The maisons’ classic tailored tweeds were ever-present on the runway but this time in more relaxed offerings, replacing buttons with zippers. Fabric created a dynamic contrast with some suits made from ribbed knits reminiscent of loungewear, while others were rendered from intricate fabrics mixed with lurex that caught the light as the models glided down the runway.
As the show progressed from day to night, drop waist dresses and fluid skirts suits took centre stage, flitting down the runway in vibrant hues, much like a butterfly that had emerged from its cocoon. Gilded details sparkled like gossamer wings, eliciting images of butterflies in flight and shifting the entire mood of the collection mid-runway.
Dior Made Tulle Cool Again
Jonathan Anderson sent sequined jeans, draped jacquard and new ruffled iterations of the cropped bar jacket down the runway in an elegant display, capturing the designer’s creative vision vividly — a romantic yet contemporary Dior. The layered tulle tutu skirts were an ode to Louis XIV, famous for his ruffled tulle sleeves and cravats. Here they were paired with blazers and jackets, transporting them into the modern world.
Peplum blazers make a comeback in the collection, coupled with sequined trousers, skirts and dresses. Novelty accessories also had a major moment this season, between Anderson’s sequinned peanuts, the adorable frog bags, and those standout lily pad shoes, the runway has officially gone kitsch.
Mugler Took Power Dressing to the Max
Miguel Castro Freitas newest offering for Mugler was an exploration of the house’s heritage of ‘Power Dressing’. Strong shoulders on 17th century court coats, military inspired utilitarian jackets with matching hats and bold colours on 80s inspired looks, sauntered down the runway to an eclectic soundtrack, generating an undeniable charge throughout the room.
Freitas showcased impressive creative range this season, pivoting effortlessly from a bold cobalt cropped bomber and ruffled skirt to a long funnel-neck shearling lined leather coat. Even a more traditional light khaki skirt suit was elevated with a clever, watch-clasp gold belt.
Elsewhere, geometric precision defined the collection’s silhouette, with shapes — such as trapeze, square and triangle — evident in broad shoulders and sharp lines that eased off into pleats or flares. This interplay of sharp shoulders and flowing hems created a dynamic tension between the structured and the rigid and the fluid.
Rick Owens Highlighted Strength and Protection
Emerging from a cloud of smoke came Rick Owen’s most experimental collection to date. Looks incorporating Kevlar, a material five times stronger than steel, stomped down the runway as a cool and confident air filled the room.
Owens’ latest vision arrived with floor-length leather gowns and manic fringing, anchored by aggressive, asymmetric hair. The silhouettes played with protection in the shape of vests layered under sharp-shouldered capes and vulnerability, featuring torso-exposing, open knit wools. The energy shifted at the end of the collection toward the gargantuan, with draped fabrics twisted into alien shapes and his signature goat-hair pieces storming the floor in an array of colours.
Dries Van Noten Held a Parade of Youthful Rebellion
Taking place in the Lycée Carnot, the Parisian high school where Dries Van Noten held his show in 2009, Julian Klausner’s newest collection for the brand was filled with youthful energy. Ceiling to floor mirrors echoed past shows, while models strutted down the runway in school uniform staples, such as tailored blazers and duffle coats adorned with intricate embellishments. Clashing prints — something the brand is well known for — appeared in oversized silhouettes. Elsewhere, traditional shirting featured gilt-edged, detachable cuffs, while pleated skirts were artfully juxtaposed against the casual weight of varsity jackets and sumptuous chunky knits.
Flemish paintings were at the centre of the collection, portrayed in full on skirts then zoomed in and pixelated on jackets, blazers and dresses. Refined fabrics were intentionally interrupted by a rebellious youthful spirit combining vulnerability and confidence to create a sense of becoming.
Ganni Exuded Danish Pragmatism
For Fall/Winter 2026, Ganni opted for delicate lace wisps and liquid silks that found their perfect counterpoint in more rooted elements of structured denim and heavy, blanket-like layers which lent the silhouettes a necessary backbone. Though romance was abundant, manifesting in tiered dresses and crinoline-inspired ruffles, the aesthetic remained grounded. For every doily-lace insert or airy pinafore, a dose of “Danish pragmatism” followed in the form of substantial tweeds and chunky, oversized knits.
Kimhēkim Celebrated its 10th Anniversary
Kimhēkim celebrated his 10th anniversary with a look back at his greatest moments, bringing back standout pieces, reimagined for today’s world. From “zhuzhed up” blousons to candy-hued minidresses, the collection is a masterclass in playful tailoring. The designer brought back his popular asymmetric blazer with giant pearl buttons, while wide-shouldered trench coats created a dramatic, tapered frame. Most inventive were the trompe-l’oeil skirts — shirts reborn as bottoms, using sleeves as integrated belts. It was a versatile lineup that proved his renown for making clothes that you want to wear immediately.
As Kimhēkim gets ready to open a new store in Paris, this collection, equal parts pretty in pink and tailored to perfection, it’s certain to have huge success in the City of Light.
Matières Fécales Showed All That Glitters Isn’t Gold
The design duo at Matières Fécales, Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran, turned their eye toward the ultra rich this season,with a collection titled ‘The One Percent.’ Set in the Palais Brongniart which once housed the Paris Stock exchange — a fitting background for the three-act show – revealed a study of power and its fallout.
Using the bourgeois family as a foundation, silhouettes navigated the thin line between luxury and decadence. Models clad in cold grey suits, eyes notably covered with a dollar banknote, to show that money doesn’t just empower, it imprisons. Wealth is reimagined through a BDSM lens, gloves and hats transition from accessories to instruments of restraint, punctuated by the jarring presence of blood-stained leather.
Biohacker Bryan Johnson, known for his multi-million dollar longevity quest walked the runway in a skin-tight grey knit, appearing as a symbol of the elite’s attempt to transcend death through wealth. Then out came fashion legend Michèle Lamy wearing a woollen high shouldered gown with frayed edges, a decided contrast to the prosthetic-heavy looks that defined the rest of the show. The collection was a political statement for present times.
Yohji Yamamoto Mastered The Kimono
For Fall/Winter 2026 Yohji Yamamoto took a deep dive into Japanese dress traditions, specifically the kimono. However, this wasn’t merely a literal interpretation, as the designer treated the kimono as a system of dressing rather than a costume, presenting a lineup of contemporary style kimonos taking to the runway in defiance.
High-contrast textiles peeked through the architecture of masterfully cut robes. Starting from a baseline of absolute black, Yamamoto punctuated the darkness with Hokusai’s iconic prints, turning each look into a canvas where traditional narrative met avant-garde construction. Flamingo motifs and psychedelic stripes merged with layered jacquards and ghostly plaids, pulling the silhouettes into uncharted territory. The collection sat in a state of suspension in a hushed, evocative dialogue where heritage met the avant-garde.
Miu Miu Explored Feminine Dresscodes
Miuccia Prada, known for reimagining feminine wardrobe codes through sensual and sculptural silhouettes was in a more reflective mood this season. The result? Clothes focused on fabrics that were soft to the touch, emulating an intimacy with the wearer. Where some jackets shrunk at the shoulders, outerwear ballooned out. Elsewhere, drop waist skirts – an ode to 1920s dressing, were reshaped with fuzzy edges.
Blazers in muted tones of grey, cream, blue and burgundy were paired effortlessly with pencil skirts, while bold sensuality emerged in leather dresses and crystal-encrusted gowns. Bras redefine the body’s contours and form, complemented by the subtle reveal of lingerie through satin dresses and bias cuts. This approach recalibrated the concept of exposure, making intimacy feel intentional and refined rather than merely provocative. Actors, Gillian Anderson, Chloe Sevigny and Diane Silvers, made appearances on the runway embodying women of all generations.
Text Bethany Berkeley
