30 January 2026 |
For its 30th anniversary the Swedish fashion house presents an Autumn/Winter menswear collection exploring both time and age. For a brand renowned for its word and weathered denim and leather, this is not foreign territory. But for AW26 Johnny Johansson’s focus is on how these elements reflect credibility and evolution.
The brand’s straight-leg 1996 silhouette returns – reimagined and updated – as a centrepiece of the collection. Elsewhere, looks play in the space between illusion and reality through trompe l’œil details, think photocopied denim and collaged texture. Leather is integrated with an effortless, lived in look, appearing as subtle trim or bold, head-to-toe silhouettes.
A sense of classic menswear codes still remain, modernised almost sarcastically throughout. Knotted silk scarves and roll neck sweaters tucked under jackets defined each look, alongside boxy shirts worn open collars. Softly shaped double breasted blazers, lean wool coats, and trousers with a subtle 70s inspired flare or a sharp crop, showing a marked precision in tailoring season, not rigid but succinct.
This collection finds beauty in the lived in, featuring textured poplin and seasoned jersey. Knitwear is styled with purpose, showcasing argyle that has been deconstructed to reveal a soulful, handmade quality. There is a tactile tension here: velvet padding meets the sharp lines of a pinstripe suit. Classic silhouettes like suede pilots and high-slit Loden coats serve as a revolving door of masculine archetypes.
Text Bethany Berkeley
