{"id":367943,"date":"2024-10-09T13:34:20","date_gmt":"2024-10-09T12:34:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/germany.10magazine.com\/simon-foxton-on-fashion-stylings-new-ai-frontier\/"},"modified":"2025-03-30T16:59:54","modified_gmt":"2025-03-30T14:59:54","slug":"simon-foxton-on-fashion-stylings-new-ai-frontier","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/germany.10magazine.com\/en_gb\/simon-foxton-on-fashion-stylings-new-ai-frontier\/","title":{"rendered":"Simon Foxton On Fashion Styling’s New AI Frontier"},"content":{"rendered":"
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On paper, Simon Foxton<\/a> has \u2018retired\u2019 from fashion, but old habits die hard. Where once the esteemed stylist had been an avid scrapbooker, splicing together imagery from all corners of the earth \u2013 whether that was gay pornography, images from National Geographic<\/em> or miscellaneous adverts \u2013 to inform his editorial concepts, he\u2019s now embracing the world of web 3.0 to create inspired AI fashion imagery.<\/p>\n

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The difference these days? He doesn\u2019t need a photographer, nor a steamer and a suitcase of called-in looks. Thanks to the wizardry of Midjourney<\/a>, an AI generative art program, the Berwick-born creative can simply input keywords as prompts or feed it imagery from his own archives.<\/p>\n

Introduced to the software by hairstylist Matt Mulhall<\/a>, Foxton, now 63, was hooked, and for the past year has been sharing his results on Instagram. As is often the case with AI, it\u2019s spookily attuned to instructions and, as a result, the very aesthetic Foxton built his name upon. Throughout the works, humorous juxtapositions play out: a beefcake American football player stands proud in broderie anglaise lycra, a young man with tribal markings wears a feathered ruff and a Latino gentleman with a skin fade smoulders in sparkly eyeshadow. You would be forgiven for thinking they are real fashion editorials \u2013 and many people do.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s not like I want to become the next AI impresario,\u201d says Foxton, video-calling from his home in the leafy suburbs of West London. \u201cIt\u2019s just having a bit of a laugh, really, which is what most of my career has been.\u201d Speaking with a light, Northumbrian burr, Foxton comes across as gentle, polite and charmingly shy. Among the fash pack he\u2019s a living legend, renowned for his trailblazing work at i-D<\/em> in the \u201980s. There, he pioneered the use of sportswear and streetwear in fashion stories and, importantly, the casting of Black models long before the glossies caught up. Later, he went on to big commercial gigs, consulting for Levi\u2019s, Stone Island and Nike. Throughout, he has remained forward-thinking, from his heady days (\u201cout at Cha-Chas [a queer party run in a railway arch behind Heaven], or wherever\u201d) to now, at home in Ealing.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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from left: Pseudo fashion editorials starring Russian twins, Sportswear of the future<\/em><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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With that track record, it\u2019s small wonder he\u2019s embraced the bleeding edge of tech. But there\u2019s more. Foxton is also, in his own characteristically modest words, a bit \u201cworkshy\u201d. While the sheer glut of imagery he\u2019s created suggests otherwise, there\u2019s something to be said about his efficiency as an artist. For context, he graduated from the Saint Martins Fashion BA in 1983 before moving on to co-run the clubwear brand Bazooka \u2013 a sporty, zesty label stocked in Joseph, as well as Kensington Market, where he shared a stall next to Leigh Bowery. Soon tired of the laborious process of designing, ordering fabrics, producing and showing clothes, Foxton discovered that styling offered a quicker means of sharing his ideas. \u201cNow, AI is quicker than styling,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

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Let\u2019s not forget that Foxton, already a long-time collaborator of Nick Knight<\/a>\u2019s from the nascent days of i-D<\/em>, worked as the fashion director of SHOWstudio<\/em> \u2013 the zenith of tech and fashion \u2013 in the 2000s. Beyond surrounding himself with the right people and an open mind, Foxton\u2019s magpie instinct towards imagery and objects alike has made AI (a hungry, archive-fuelled converter) a natural fit. \u201cI\u2019ve always collected,\u201d he says. Foxton\u2019s video background (his bedroom) is replete with curios spanning antlers and a framed drawing from the Philippines bought at auction all the way through to a metronome and solar-system mobile hung above his bed. \u201cMy partner [of more than 40 years, Donald, a tailor] goes mad because I\u2019m constantly buying things. It\u2019s a one-in-one-out policy now.\u201d<\/p>\n

This eclectic sensibility is apparent throughout his AI works. Religious iconography a\u0300 la Caravaggio merges with a Derek Jarman-inspired homoeroticism. Elsewhere, Afro-haired glam rockers pose in paillette and satin trousers, replete with camp jewels and talismans. The thinking behind the latter? Foxton was simply listening to glam rock when it dawned on him that you rarely saw Black people represented in the genre. He dialled in his prompts, merging West African photography, such as the work of Malians Malick Sidibe\u0301 and Seydou Kei\u0308ta, with glam and punk style. As well as accepting prompts, Midjourney can blend images that already exist, which Foxton has hoarded in boxes and under his bed. As such, many of his AI renders will feature the same poses, lighting and casting that you might recognise from his famous shoots.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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\u201cStreet castings\u201d in Tokyo and Los Angeles<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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On Instagram, Foxton builds a narrative around the photographs. In one, we see two dancers \u2013 one clad in only a leather choker, cuffs and wrestler shorts, the other in chic, sleeveless tailoring \u2013 in a small, shebeen-style nightclub. By all accounts, it looks like a real party, bar one slightly glitchy eye. The caption reads, \u201cWhat a night! Just got back from the annual Northfields Community Spring dance. Slightly marred by people\u2019s over indulgence at the free bar. Nonetheless, everyone seemed to have a good time.\u201d While it\u2019s complete fiction, this type of storytelling was essential to Foxton\u2019s work as a stylist. Drawn to menswear because of its links to subculture, youth culture and gay culture, not to mention all the codification which comes with that, Foxton styled his subjects by juxtaposing disparate references. In this instance, they seem to be his local community hall and fetishwear. \u201cI\u2019ve never really been the sort of stylist who knows what the latest thing is,\u201d he says. \u201cIt\u2019s more about concepts and ways of seeing.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Coincidentally, Foxton has found it tricky to replicate designer fashion on Midjourney. However, themes or tropes, whether that\u2019s vintage skiwear or 1970s punk, are often fruitful and surprisingly novel. \u201cIn a way, I\u2019m going back to my roots, to when I first started with i-D<\/em> in the mid-1980s,\u201d he says. \u201cWe didn\u2019t have access to designer clothes as much back then. We had to just use what we had, what you could get off markets or what our friends were designing.\u201d Naturally, the staging of his AI photographs takes cues from the candid, street-style approach he pioneered. In one instance, that might mean a handsome twentysomething sporting biker boots, shredded denim shorts and a patchworked jean jacket, backdropped by a Los Angeles-coded street. In another, it\u2019s three cadaverous beauties, shot in black and white, sporting mid-century denim workwear. \u201cHelping a friend do some research on men\u2019s historic trouser volumes,\u201d Foxton captioned it.<\/p>\n

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Another productive aspect to Foxton\u2019s AI endeavours is what they teach him about his own work. \u2018Styling\u2019 was still a relatively new term when he was coming up, especially in menswear, and so being able to find a cohesive fil rouge<\/em> in his work took a long time. The turning point happened in 2009, when editor Penny Martin curated an exhibition around Foxton\u2019s styling at The Photographer\u2019s Gallery in London, entitled When You\u2019re a Boy<\/em> (a lyric from Bowie\u2019s Boys Keep Swinging<\/em>). In it, the themes we can now pinpoint in his AI work \u2013 sexuality, queerness, masculinity, cultural heritage \u2013 were picked out for the first time by collating his work with Knight, Alasdair McLellan and Jason Evans, among other collaborators. \u201cI always thought my work was all over the place and unrecognisable, but obviously I came to see that I had a certain aesthetic,\u201d he says. \u201c[Midjourney], I guess, is a refining of that.\u201d Of course, Foxton has always found different ways to channel his aesthetic cues. When Tumblr was big in the 2010s, he would collate imagery there. Then, when the company was about to be sold, it took a prudish turn, which put his more explicit reblogs at risk of deletion. Foxton downloaded them for safekeeping. Today, the salvaged images inform his current practice, just as his original scrapbooks do. He even opened a second Instagram, @foxtonscrapbooks<\/a>, to house AI work and visual references that inform his creative practice.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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from left: Fantasy sportswear through a homoerotic lens; as with all the imagery in this feature, Foxton\u2019s art has been created with generative AI, a soldier from an unknown army<\/em><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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Perhaps at odds with all this, he is also a proud gardener: his shed is stacked to the brim with \u201cbits and pieces\u201d. However, what sounds like two completely different vocations \u2013 the bold, sexy AI image-maker versus the green-fingered homebody \u2013 come together as integral parts of Foxton\u2019s make-up. Both, in essence, are about accumulating beautiful things and then editing them down. \u201cFrom the outside looking in, it\u2019s quite mundane,\u201d he says. \u201cI do very suburban things, but then I\u2019m a bit more, shall we say, expressive in the work that I do. It\u2019s quite nice to have both feet on the ground and [your] head in the clouds.\u201d<\/p>\n

Foxton has always kept his personal life and work life quite separate. He is, by his own admission, a very private person. \u201cI\u2019ve never really been part of the fashion pack, although obviously I know a lot of people because I\u2019ve worked in it over the years,\u201d he says. But being creative isn\u2019t something he can simply turn off. While he might not be running around on fashion shoots any longer, he still needs an artistic escape. AI does just that. \u201cIt\u2019s just a really exciting new tool \u2013 I want to say a toy. It\u2019s another string to your bow,\u201d he says. From his bedroom, he\u2019s free to concoct ingenious, otherworldly shoots, riffing on his illustrious backlog of ideas, yet aided by the newness of a program that is constantly learning and adapting to its users. Nonetheless, he does wonder whether there are limits to this given its reliance on what\u2019s already out there. \u201cIs it a worry that it all gets a bit samey?\u201d he asks, before answering his own question. \u201cI don\u2019t know. Anyway, that\u2019s not my concern.\u201d<\/p>\n

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For the time being, Foxton continues to enjoy AI on his own terms, at home with a few glasses of white wine. \u201cIt\u2019s not always a very specific or remembered process,\u201d he says with a laugh. But that\u2019s just it. The same easy-going, DIY creativity that drew him to styling draws him to Midjourney too. While there are talks of him doing album covers for musicians and serious essays are being written about his new work, he\u2019s still, in his eyes, just having fun.<\/p>\n

10 Men Issue 60 \u2013 ECCENTRIC, FANTASY, ROMANCE \u2013 is out now. Order your copy here<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n

@simonfoxton<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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The chiselled physique of a fantasy sportsman<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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