{"id":367977,"date":"2024-12-05T14:00:41","date_gmt":"2024-12-05T14:00:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/germany.10magazine.com\/the-unbound-creativity-of-legendary-make-up-artist-val-garland\/"},"modified":"2024-12-05T14:00:41","modified_gmt":"2024-12-05T14:00:41","slug":"the-unbound-creativity-of-legendary-make-up-artist-val-garland","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/germany.10magazine.com\/en_gb\/the-unbound-creativity-of-legendary-make-up-artist-val-garland\/","title":{"rendered":"The Unbound Creativity Of Legendary Make-up Artist Val Garland"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Introducing the 10+ Issue 7 beauty supplement. Beauty isn\u2019t solely about how it looks. How it feels is just as important. And its power comes from deep within. It is rooted inside the psyche, as Val Garland, the legendary make-up artist behind our cover story, explains. Inside the issue, she talks of being driven from a young age to express herself with make-up and hair and responds to this in an otherworldly photoshoot lensed by Rob Rusling and styled by our very own Sophia Neophitou-Apostolou. Here, Dominic Cadogan sits down with the make-up authority. <\/em><\/p>\n

Any beauty lover worth their salt knows the trailblazing impact of Val Garland<\/a>. In fact, over her three-decade career, you\u2019d struggle to find a designer, magazine, photographer or celebrity face that she hasn\u2019t, to borrow a phrase from her 2018 tome, Validated!<\/em>.<\/p>\n

Whether it\u2019s painting tattoo-like ejaculating penises on models for Vivienne Westwood<\/a>, bedazzling Bjo\u0308rk, transmogrifying Gareth Pugh<\/a> models into bug-eyed aliens with Venus flytrap lashes, becoming L\u2019Ore\u0301al Paris<\/a>\u2019s first global make-up director or inspiring Gaga\u2019s legendary 2010 MTV VMAs meat dress, the only constant is Garland\u2019s approach to her craft: gut instinct and unbound creativity.<\/p>\n

\u201cI come at a beauty story from an artistic point of view,\u201d the make-up legend tells 10. \u201cThat sounds wanky, but I always want to make a visual image. I have a few ideas up my sleeve and I see what happens \u2013 I\u2019m not really a planner. That probably goes back to where I started in the \u201980s. It was all about making it up as you go along and finding the beauty in imperfection. I like to disrupt a bit rather than it being all lovely.\u201d<\/p>\n

Back then, when Garland was starting out, she began making waves in hair, not make-up. After \u201cstomping out\u201d of school as a teen, she hoodwinked her way into a salon, with no prior experience, quickly learning on the go after years of self-transformation. \u201cI wanted to be noticed for being different, not for being beautiful,\u201d she says. \u201cI went through this stage of burning my hair, so I had this sort of sticking- out-everywhere hairdo and my mother always used to say to me, \u2018Why do you make yourself so ugly?\u2019 But I quite liked being the odd kid. I had this wild imagination and would make up stories of what I thought was really happening, but wasn\u2019t. I was convinced I was an alien.\u201d<\/p>\n

Determined to find her own path, Garland ended up in Sydney, Australia, opening her own salon, Garland & Garland<\/a>. Cutting and colouring during the day and partying at night, it was the spark that lit the blaze of creative expression that was to come. \u201cI was heavily in the gay club scene, it was fantastic and where everything happened,\u201d she recalls. \u201cWe lived for the nightlife and would be making outfits out of dishcloths, bin bags and bandages. Australia gave me a taste of being whoever I wanted to be without any fear. I was already experimenting with make-up and it just took off.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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from left: Esther wears Les Beiges Healthy Glow Foundation, Le Liner de Chanel High Precision Eyeliner, Rouge Allure Velvet in 48 Ardente lipstick, Rouge Allure Velvet in 72 Infrarose lipstick, all by CHANEL Beauty and Esther wears Les Beiges Healthy Glow Foundation, Le Liner de Chanel High Precision Eyeliner, Rouge Allure Velvet in 48 Ardente lipstick, Rouge Allure Velvet in 72 Infrarose lipstick, all by CHANEL Beauty<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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Transplanting back to London in 1994, Garland quickly fell in with the creative crowd bubbling up in the city. \u201cI started working with Katy England<\/a>, Eugene Souleiman<\/a> and Nick Knight<\/a>. Katy introduced me to Lee McQueen<\/a> and Nick introduced me to John Galliano<\/a>. Dazed and Confused<\/em> was a brand new magazine from [editor] Jefferson [Hack] and Rankin, and they had all these young photographers: Mert and Marcus, John Akehurst, Horst Diekgerdes, Phil Poynter, Norbert Schoerner, S\u00f8lve Sundsb\u00f8. They were all experimenting and doing things that hadn\u2019t been done before. It was a lot more art-based as opposed to conventional and stepping outside the norm. We were all in this melting pot together and out of it came all of these amazing moments.\u201d<\/p>\n

Now canonised in fashion history, these legends (including Garland) set the tone for the decade, shooting daring, groundbreaking editorials and putting on seminal fashion shows. \u201cPhil Poynter was taking a Polaroid of me, [and the stylists] Katy England, Alister Mackie and Malcolm Edwards, and I remember Alister lent over and said \u2018This is a historic moment\u2019. I feel so lucky and privileged to have been with all those people at that time and grown with them. When you\u2019re surrounded by other creatives that are leaders in their field and they want to give something a go whether or not it\u2019ll work, it gives you the adrenaline to jump into the abyss with them.\u201d<\/p>\n

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London\u2019s youthquake is probably best exemplified by McQueen, a one-of-a-kind force who enlisted Garland to key the make-up for some of his most lauded outings. Whether it was transforming models into haunting porcelain dolls for Voss<\/em> (SS01), emulating sweat-drenched dancers for Deliverance<\/em> (SS04), or plumbing Pierrot for the noir clown looks that closed What a Merry-Go-Round<\/em> (AW01) \u2013 the creative collaboration with the late designer remains the zenith of her career. \u201cIt was pretty powerful because we were crossing boundaries,\u201d she says. \u201cThe shows were phenomenal. You\u2019d be backstage and you\u2019d hear the beat in your heart because the music was so loud and aggressive. Thank God I had that time with him because there is no other Lee McQueen.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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Esther wears Les Beiges Healthy Glow foundation and Joues Contraste Blush in Rose Initial,\u00a0Baume Essentiel Multi-Use Glow Stick in Transparent, all by CHANEL Beauty, eyelashes by SHU UEMURA, dress by ALAIA<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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Garland\u2019s transformational time\u00a0with McQueen led her to work with\u00a0another originator \u2013 after catching\u00a0the eye of a young Lady Gaga<\/a>. Back\u00a0then, a burgeoning pop star hungry\u00a0for global domination, the artist was\u00a0integral to the Rolodex of characters\u00a0throughout her Fame Monster and Born This Way eras. \u201cShe was an open book\u00a0at that time, so you could go in many,\u00a0many different directions,\u201d Garland\u00a0tells me about working with Gaga on\u00a0the music videos for Edge of Glory<\/em>,\u00a0Judas, Alejandro<\/em> and You\u0308 and I<\/em>. With\u00a0her bleached brows, intricate liner and\u00a0glitter-covered lids, the make-up artist\u2019s\u00a0impact is immortalised on the cover of 2011\u2019s Born This Way<\/em> \u2013 her motorcycle-mounted head made even more manic with alienesque prosthetics protruding from the cheeks and temple.<\/p>\n

While two powerhouse creatives might be enough of a fill for other artists, Garland hungered for more. Thanks to BBC Three\u2019s Glow Up: Britain\u2019s Next Make-Up Star, which first graced our screens in 2019, a new opportunity arose to nurture a new crop of make-up artists. \u201cJust before I arrived in London in 1994, somebody gave me a break and that started off my career, so I\u2019ve always thought that you have to help the next generation. There\u2019s enough work for all of us, but you have to give back,\u201d she shares on what enticed her to make her TV debut. Now in its sixth season, it\u2019s a comfort watch: Garland and fellow make-up artist and partner-in-crime Dominic Skinner are at once tender and tough, pushing the contestants to reach the industry benchmark. Amid tears and tantrums, there are triumphs too, notably when contestants receive a jubilant \u2018DING DONG!\u2019 \u2013 the ultimate mark of validation. \u201cWhen the show came along, I didn\u2019t know if it was going to go past series one, but working with all of this talent and seeing the hunger, fear, anger, frustration, joy and utter determination of each of these artists is jaw-dropping to watch and to be a part of,\u201d Garland says. \u201cI\u2019m still in regular contact with quite a few of the artists that have appeared on the show and they come to work with me on a regular basis. They\u2019re getting integrated into our community, which is pretty special.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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from left: Wenli wears Clay mask, Chromaline Gel Cream Liner in Hi-Def Cyan, Paint Stick custom mix Pink cheek, Russian Red lipstick, Kryolan Pigment in Pure Pleasure, all by MAC Cosmetics, and Wenli wears Clay mask, Chromaline Gel Cream Liner in Hi-Def Cyan, Paint Stick custom mix Pink cheek, Russian Red lipstick, Kryolan Pigment in Pure Pleasure, all by MAC Cosmetics, dress by LOEWE<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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If they weren\u2019t already familiar with Garland, Glow Up introduced her to a whole new generation of make-up lovers. A symbiotic relationship, when she\u2019s not amplifying their work on her social media platforms they\u2019re paying homage to her extensive back catalogue on theirs. Most recently, her SS16 look for Gareth Pugh \u2013 think chic bank robbers, with models\u2019 hosiery-covered faces glammed up with campy blue eyeshadow and red lips \u2013 re-emerged, immediately going viral. \u201cWhat\u2019s fabulous is seeing young talent take an idea and give it a new voice \u2013 I love to see a reinterpretation of it,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

\u201cLet\u2019s be honest, my idea wasn\u2019t original, I got my inspiration from Leigh Bowery.<\/a> Nothing\u2019s new, but the reinvention of an idea is a new phenomena and I love seeing what the next generation is doing because that\u2019s how we grow and make new ideas. I don\u2019t like to say the word trend, but we make new movements.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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Esther wears MACStack Mascara, Paint Stick in Black and Lipglass custom mix eyeliner, Chromaline Gel Cream Liner in Pure White, all by MAC Cosmetics<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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As well as inspiring its community of creators, you\u2019ll also find the woman herself on your For You Page. As warm and engaging as she is on your TV screen, watching Garland\u2019s videos is akin to getting tips from your beauty-obsessed friend: everything from product recommendations straight from her kit to behind-the-scenes insight into her plethora of renowned looks. \u201cI decided if I\u2019m going to do something, it\u2019s going to be raw,\u201d she says of her down-to-earth approach. \u201cI\u2019m an older woman and this is what make-up looks like on an older woman\u2019s face \u2013 it\u2019s not filtered at all and what you see is what you get. I\u2019ve had a long career in this job and there are little nuggets that I do on an everyday basis that somebody else wouldn\u2019t realise. I think it\u2019s important to share. Why not?\u201d<\/p>\n

At this stage in her career, you\u2019d be forgiven for thinking Garland has seen it all, done it all and got a stack of T-shirts to prove it, but she\u2019s still as motivated by make-up as when she first picked up a brush. Look no further than the pages of this very magazine, or the new faces that inspire her, from model of the moment Alex Consani<\/span><\/a> to South African pop sensation Tyla<\/span><\/a>. \u201cI like to create something new and turn an idea upside down and inside out,\u201d she says. \u201cI\u2019m still inspired.\u201d It\u2019s a trait she shares with the next generation of artists, who are similarly unbothered by boring beauty ideals and determined to keep pushing the dial. \u201cToday\u2019s youth culture is more individualistic, they want to have a persona. Maybe they want to be a creature, a furry, or whatever they want to be who they are. Make-up plays into it a lot more and we should all embrace it.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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from left: Wenli wears Studio Waterweight Foundation, Reflects transparent pink glitter and eyeshadows by MAC Cosmetics and Le Liner de Chanel High Precision Eyeliner by CHANEL Beauty<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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What should they do if they want to be the Val Garland of tomorrow? Unsurprisingly, for a question she\u2019s been asked countless times, she\u2019s well-prepared with a necklace-full of pearls of wisdom. \u201cDon\u2019t listen to anyone else, don\u2019t copy anyone else. Be true to yourself, be authentic. Keep banging on that door, keep going, \u2018Let me in, let me in\u2019. Find your tribe, find your people and grow with them, because the people you\u2019re kicking out with in a photographic studio are the people who are going to be on your journey. Try different things, listen to music, go to art galleries, do life-drawing classes or sculpture. All of these things can help hone your career instead of looking at another make-up artist\u2019s work that\u2019s already been done.<\/p>\n

\u201cYou want to be the next Val Garland?\u201d she concludes. \u201cNo. You want to be the next you.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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Esther wears Les Beiges Healthy Glow Foundation and Rouge Allure Velvet in Ardente, lipstick, all by CHANEL Beauty<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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Taken from 10+ Issue 7 \u2013 DECADENCE, MORE, PLEASURE \u2013 on newsstands Dec 6. Pre-order your copy here<\/a>. <\/em><\/p>\n

@10magazine<\/a><\/p>\n

VAL GARLAND: FIRST IMPRESSION<\/b><\/h4>\n
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Photographer<\/em> ROB RUSLING<\/strong>
\nFashion Editor<\/em> SOPHIA NEOPHITOU<\/strong>
\nMake-up and Creative Director<\/em> VAL GARLAND<\/strong>
\nText<\/em> DOMINIC CADOGAN
\n<\/strong>Models<\/em> ESTHER FINCH<\/em><\/strong> at Elite Models and<\/em> WENLI ZHAO<\/strong> at Next Management
\nHair<\/em> MASSIMO DI STEFANO
\n<\/strong>Manicurist<\/em> JENNY LONGWORTH
\n<\/strong>Digital operator<\/em> MATTHEW ALAND
\n<\/strong>Photographer\u2019s assistants<\/em> JENNA SMITH<\/strong> and OLIVER WEBB<\/strong>
\nFashion assistants<\/em> GEORGIA EDWARDS, MARIA SARABI<\/strong> and JOSHUA BEUTUM<\/strong>
\n<\/em>Hair assistant<\/em> LEANNE MILLAR<\/strong>
\nMake-up assistants PAULA MAXWELL<\/strong> and CRAIG HAMILTON<\/strong>
\nCasting<\/em> SIX WOLVES<\/strong>
\nProduction<\/em> MAYOR PRODUCTIONS<\/strong><\/p>\n

Special thanks to<\/em> GARY MCALLISTER<\/strong> at Streeters and ELLE JOHN<\/strong> at FE Creatives<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Any beauty lover worth their salt knows the trailblazing impact of Val Garland. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":11,"featured_media":387615,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":"","_wpscp_schedule_draft_date":"","_wpscp_schedule_republish_date":"","_wpscppro_advance_schedule":false,"_wpscppro_advance_schedule_date":"","_wpscppro_dont_share_socialmedia":null,"_wpscppro_custom_social_share_image":0,"_facebook_share_type":"default","_twitter_share_type":"default","_linkedin_share_type":"default","_pinterest_share_type":"default","_linkedin_share_type_page":"","_instagram_share_type":"default","_medium_share_type":"default","_threads_share_type":"","_google_business_share_type":"","_selected_social_profile":[],"_wpsp_enable_custom_social_template":false,"_wpsp_social_scheduling":{"enabled":false,"datetime":null,"platforms":[],"status":"template_only","dateOption":"today","timeOption":"now","customDays":"","customHours":"","customDate":"","customTime":"","schedulingType":"absolute"},"_wpsp_active_default_template":true},"categories":[44],"tags":[949,1009,111,1010,951,1011,27],"season":[],"class_list":["post-367977","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-beauty","tag-949","tag-10-plus","tag-beauty","tag-gareth-pugh","tag-issue-7","tag-val-garland","tag-vivienne-westwood"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe Unbound Creativity Of Legendary Make-up Artist Val Garland - 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