{"id":369336,"date":"2026-02-06T12:17:29","date_gmt":"2026-02-06T11:17:29","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/germany.10magazine.com\/?p=369336"},"modified":"2026-02-06T12:17:29","modified_gmt":"2026-02-06T11:17:29","slug":"10-signals-defining-berlin-fashion-week-aw26","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/germany.10magazine.com\/en_gb\/10-signals-defining-berlin-fashion-week-aw26\/","title":{"rendered":"10 Signals Defining Berlin Fashion Week AW26"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Minus 10 degrees. Snowstorms. A citywide public transport strike. Berlin Fashion Week AW26 opened under conditions closer to a stress test than a spectacle.<\/span><\/p>\n

The city moved slower, half-asleep under layers of ice and exhaustion \u2013 until the first show snapped it awake. Logistics were harder, arrivals messier, but Berlin did what it always does: it folded friction into the narrative.<\/span><\/p>\n

This season confirmed what has been building quietly for years. Berlin is the city where trends don\u2019t arrive polished; it is where they are formed underground. Subcultures, music scenes, and art practices remain central, producing audacious silhouettes and designers unafraid of tension, contradiction and risk.<\/span><\/p>\n

Runways became social spaces. Locals shared casts with artists, friends of the brands, and familiar faces from the city\u2019s cultural ecosystem, dissolving the boundary between fashion show and community moment.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Berlin designers are no longer operating at the margins of the global conversation. They are shaping it on their own terms. These are the 10 signals that defined AW26 \u2013 and explain why Berlin still matters.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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1. Workday Reality: Sia Arnika<\/b><\/h4>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n
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A firm favourite on the Berlin Fashion Week calendar, <\/span>Sia Arnika<\/span><\/a> has built a devoted following for her sharp reading of the capital\u2019s zeitgeist, all filtered through her Danish lens. \u201cOvertime\u201d, staged in an abandoned office at Potsdamer Platz, opened to the relentless ringing of a phone \u2013 unanswered, unresolved, full of tension. Why is no one picking up? Is someone still in the office? Inspired by that moment when the workday melts into instinct, corporate uniforms turned into partywear: glossy shorts met corsets, blouses tangled with ties, office staples recombined into hybrid looks. Skin showed up uninvited, and of course, her signature Danish clogs in new colours grounded the chaos.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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2. Emotional Labour: <\/b>Kasia Kucharska<\/b><\/h4>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n
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Since 2021, <\/span>Kasia Kucharska<\/span><\/a> has defined Berlin\u2019s fashion scene with her 3D-printed latex and emotionally charged silhouettes. This season she turned inward, putting care, motherhood, and vulnerability centre stage. Describing her state of mind as \u201ca rollercoaster\u201d, her collection captured the post-partum mess: new fears, new insecurities and an overwhelming love. Childhood references collided with contemporary femininity, producing garments that felt raw, intimate and fiercely empowering. Snake motifs \u2013 twisted into complex 3D-printed latex \u2013 recalled <\/span>The Jungle Book<\/span><\/i>, the first film she ever saw. \u201cI reimagined the hypnotic snake,\u201d she explained. \u201cIt reflects the character we all carry inside.\u201d Hypnosis, danger, and inner strength, all\u00a0 up in latex. The notes of <\/span>Motomami<\/span><\/i> by Rosal\u00eda couldn\u2019t be a more perfect background music.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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3. System: William Fan<\/b><\/h4>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n
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William Fan<\/span><\/a> continues to fuse his German upbringing with Chinese heritage, turning modular design into a refined, wearable language. \u201cRing the Bell\u201d wasn\u2019t a reinvention \u2013 it was an evolution, smoothing the edges of the modular system that\u2019s made the brand a Berlin staple. Shimmering topcoats paired with zip-heavy utility jackets, dresses layered over trousers, modularity made glamorous yet sensible. A collection for everyone, young or old, proving Fan\u2019s talent for timeless, ambitious dressing.<\/span>
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4. Historical Reframing: Haderlump and Marke
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One of Berlin\u2019s most crowded shows, <\/span>Haderlump<\/span><\/a> returned with \u201cVARIUS\u201d, staged at the Wintergarten Variet\u00e9. After past shows at Tempelhof and S-Bahn Werk Sch\u00f6neweide, the theatrical setting transported the audience to the Roaring Twenties. Experimental live music and piano framed a collection that balanced strength and grace through leather, denim and thick wool. Trading rustic rawness for refined tailoring, the brand reimagined Marlene Dietrich\u2019s iconic silhouettes with contemporary authority.<\/span><\/p>\n

MARKE<\/span><\/a> presented \u201cThe Owl\u201d, a name that perfectly captures the brand\u2019s enduring fascination with literature, philosophy and folklore. Moving away from oversized proportions, Mario Keine embraced disciplined silhouettes that merged classical menswear with Rococo ornamentation. Australian Merino wool, cashmere, and silk duchesse were layered with polka-dot tulle and dried flowers \u2013 poetic symbols of fading splendour. The result was romantic, restrained, and quietly melancholic. Almost a whisper of Berlin\u2019s intellectual heart.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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5. Circular Craft: Lou de B\u00e8toly<\/b><\/h4>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n
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If couture can start on the street, <\/span>Lou de Be\u0300toly<\/span><\/a> proves it. Her return to the runway \u2013 after a deliberate season-skip rooted in sustainability \u2013 felt less like a traditional show and more like a material experiment. As she explains, \u201cMy process begins with a restraint on materials: a single box of buttons bought as a child, or a collection of vintage stockings and underwear.\u201d Familiar objects were transformed into sculptural garments, with highlights including the bra gown and accessories reworked into tops. The audience was leaning in, squinting to decode each piece: \u201c<\/span>Is that a sock? Are these panties? Is that\u2026 hair?\u201d <\/span><\/i>The room kept buzzing with curiosity \u2013 and delight, from the first to the last look.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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6. Comfort Politics: Andrej Gronau<\/b><\/h4>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n
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At his second Berlin Fashion Week show, <\/span>Andrej Gronau<\/span><\/a> continued to position himself between youthful na\u00efvet\u00e9 and quiet refinement. Presented in a Charlottenburg apartment, \u201cRoom for Play\u201d unfolded as a manifesto against the performance of \u201cgood taste\u201d. By elevating so-called fashion sins \u2013 those clothes we wear only in private, without judgement \u2013 Gronau reframed comfort as a political act. French terry, velour, and wallpaper florals became tools of resistance. These gestures weren\u2019t ironic, but sincere: an unapologetic assertion of the private self made public. The result? Thoughtful, human, and completely relatable.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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7. Refusal: Ioannes\u00a0<\/b><\/h4>\n

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Showing in Berlin for the second time, Johannes Boehl Cronau from <\/span>Ioannes<\/span><\/a> presented \u201cApocalypsis\u201d \u2013 a title referencing the ancient Greek meaning: unveiling, bringing to light. The show had that \u201cend-times\u201d mood, probably because Cronau no longer wants to follow the fashion calendar\u2019s prescribed rhythm; \u201cApocalypsis\u201d will be his last classic runway show for now. Still, the collection felt like a survival kit for the future, a personal review of the archives, deciding what to keep and what to leave behind. Razor-sharp suits, body-skimming dresses, and his signature heels strutted the runway. On another note: fringes everywhere! Swinging from bags or delicate pochettes, they kept the looks in constant motion. The result? Sharp, playful, and completely unbothered.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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8. Underground Code: UNVAIN and SF1OG<\/b>
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UNVAIN<\/span><\/a>\u2019s debut under Robert Friedrichs didn\u2019t feel like a first chapter \u2013 it felt like a statement. Set inside the Feuerle Collection, a former bunker, the show unfolded in near-total darkness, thick with incense and glam-rock aggression. As the song \u2018Tear You Apart\u2019 by She Wants Revenge reverberated through the concrete, models appeared and disappeared between artworks and statues. Napoleon jackets, heavy leather, sheer mesh, organza: toughness and fragility coexisted without explanation. That was the point. Final note worth remembering: micro leather shorts for men.<\/span><\/p>\n

SF1OG<\/span><\/a>, meanwhile, continues its steady rise as the uniform supplier for Berlin\u2019s younger creative crowd. A few seasons in, already essential. For AW26, founders Rosa Marga Dahl and Jacob Langemeyer asked a simple but sharp question: \u201cWho am I when no one is watching?\u201d Exploring the tension between concealment and revelation \u2013 what we hide versus what we choose to show \u2013 the duo looked to the Victorian era for inspiration. SF1OG approached the collection with total self-confidence; the brand managed to represent both the roughness and the softness of underground culture. Victorian mourning silhouettes met indie-rock energy, with double-breasted coats, gold pins, and precise tailoring doing most of the talking. SF1OG doesn\u2019t document subculture \u2013 it translates it into code. If you know, you know.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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9. Memory and Origin: GmbH\u00a0<\/b><\/h4>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n
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Ten years in, and <\/span>GmbH<\/span><\/a> still knows exactly where it comes from \u2013 and why it matters. With \u201cDoppelg\u00e4nger\u201d, Serhat I\u015f\u0131k and Benjamin Alexander Huseby looked back to the gritty 1980s West Berlin subcultures without turning them into nostalgia. Renowned internationally for their deeply political, \u201cresistance-driven\u201d approach to fashion, they stayed true to their DNA with signature double-fly trousers and aggressive over-the-knee boots, while introducing plush, shawl-collared faux fur and sailor-collar bombers for the cold season. The real power, as always, was in the casting. In a fashion system still obsessed with thinness and sameness, GmbH delivered one of the strongest male line-ups of the season \u2013 diverse, grounded, real. No tokenism, no slogans. Just a quiet, confident reminder: this is what resistance looks like when it\u2019s fully embodied. I\u015f\u0131k and Huseby didn\u2019t just reference the past; they redefined who gets to own the future.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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10. Performance: Richert Beil\u00a0<\/b><\/h4>\n

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Since 2014, Jale Richert and Michele Beil from label <\/span>Richert Beil<\/span><\/a> have consistently challenged conventional elegance norms highlighting latex tailoring to deadstock suiting. For AW26, they invited guests into their atelier for \u201cLandei\u201d, a four-course, multisensory performance. Silence was declared part of the experience. Against an anxious piano score, waiters and models \u2013 wearing the collection \u2013 prowled through the room like mysterious creatures as guests hesitated between watching and tasting. Rejecting speed and visibility, the collection embraced slowness and depth. Ruffled bibs, latex elements and napkin-folded fabrics fused culinary references with expert craftsmanship. A fitting \u2013 and unsettling \u2013 finale show to another incredible Fashion Week.<\/span><\/p>\n

Berlin AW26 is bigger than any one runway. The city welcomed many other voices from across the globe: Kampala-based <\/span>BUZIGAHILL<\/span><\/a>, transforming secondhand clothes into political statements; Lagos-born <\/span>Orange Culture<\/span><\/a>, fusing African heritage with modern luxury; Tokyo-based <\/span>John Lawrence Sullivan<\/span><\/a>, mixing sharp tailoring with fearless storytelling; and Northern Ireland\u2019s <\/span>DAGGER<\/span><\/a>, built from working-class grit and skate culture. Together, they prove that Berlin remains a crossroads where local attitude meets global imagination \u2013 and where fashion keeps thinking differently.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n

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Text Giulio Polverigiani<\/em><\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

It\u2019s a slow Sunday morning in the German capital. The sunlight falls across the white kitchen table in my Berlin studio, a rare moment of warmth in our typically harsh winter. I\u2019m preparing to speak to the Austrian chanteuse and dear friend, Sofie Royer.<\/p>\n

A few minutes before our scheduled call, she messages me, apologising for the fact that she\u2019ll be ten minutes late. I respond with, \u201cDas geht sich aus\u201d \u2013 a small but satisfying moment of Austrian connection between us both. \u2018Young-Girl Illusion\u2019 \u2013 a track from her latest album, Young-Girl Forever \u2013 plays in the background, making the studio feel even cosier when she eventually calls.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1436,"featured_media":441572,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":"","_wpscp_schedule_draft_date":"","_wpscp_schedule_republish_date":"","_wpscppro_advance_schedule":false,"_wpscppro_advance_schedule_date":"","_wpscppro_dont_share_socialmedia":null,"_wpscppro_custom_social_share_image":0,"_facebook_share_type":"default","_twitter_share_type":"default","_linkedin_share_type":"default","_pinterest_share_type":"default","_linkedin_share_type_page":"","_instagram_share_type":"default","_medium_share_type":"default","_threads_share_type":"default","_google_business_share_type":"default","_selected_social_profile":[],"_wpsp_enable_custom_social_template":false,"_wpsp_social_scheduling":{"enabled":false,"datetime":null,"platforms":[],"status":"template_only","dateOption":"today","timeOption":"now","customDays":"","customHours":"","customDate":"","customTime":"","schedulingType":"absolute"},"_wpsp_active_default_template":true},"categories":[876,17,12],"tags":[1213,1087,1086,1217,1211,1214,1137,1138,1212,1218,1216,1045,1215,1210],"season":[],"class_list":["post-369336","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","category-menswear","category-shows","tag-andrej-gronau","tag-berlin-fashion-week","tag-bfw","tag-gmbh","tag-haderlump","tag-ioannes","tag-kasia-kucharska","tag-lou-de-betoly","tag-marke","tag-richert-beil","tag-sf1og","tag-sia-arnika","tag-unvain","tag-william-fan"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n10 Signals Defining Berlin Fashion Week AW26 - 10 Magazine Germany<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/germany.10magazine.com\/en_gb\/10-signals-defining-berlin-fashion-week-aw26\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"10 Signals Defining Berlin Fashion Week AW26\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"It\u2019s a slow Sunday morning in the German capital. The sunlight falls across the white kitchen table in my Berlin studio, a rare moment of warmth in our typically harsh winter. I\u2019m preparing to speak to the Austrian chanteuse and dear friend, Sofie Royer. A few minutes before our scheduled call, she messages me, apologising for the fact that she\u2019ll be ten minutes late. I respond with, \u201cDas geht sich aus\u201d \u2013 a small but satisfying moment of Austrian connection between us both. \u2018Young-Girl Illusion\u2019 \u2013 a track from her latest album, Young-Girl Forever \u2013 plays in the background, making the studio feel even cosier when she eventually calls.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/germany.10magazine.com\/en_gb\/10-signals-defining-berlin-fashion-week-aw26\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"10 Magazine Germany\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2026-02-06T11:17:29+00:00\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Giulio Polverigiani\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Giulio Polverigiani\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Estimated reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"9 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/germany.10magazine.com\/10-signals-defining-berlin-fashion-week-aw26\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/germany.10magazine.com\/10-signals-defining-berlin-fashion-week-aw26\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Giulio Polverigiani\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/germany.10magazine.com\/en_gb\/#\/schema\/person\/84f5cdcb00f1e11c761a64674ab39635\"},\"headline\":\"10 Signals Defining Berlin Fashion Week AW26\",\"datePublished\":\"2026-02-06T11:17:29+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/germany.10magazine.com\/10-signals-defining-berlin-fashion-week-aw26\/\"},\"wordCount\":1921,\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/germany.10magazine.com\/10-signals-defining-berlin-fashion-week-aw26\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\/\/germany.10magazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/02\/Richert_Beil_Aw26_Look10_Press_by_Boris-Marberg_for_BFW.jpg\",\"keywords\":[\"Andrej Gronau\",\"Berlin Fashion Week\",\"BFW\",\"GmbH\",\"Haderlump\",\"Ioannes\",\"Kasia kucharska\",\"lou de betoly\",\"Marke\",\"Richert Beil\",\"SF1OG\",\"Sia Arnika\",\"UNVAIN\",\"William Fan\"],\"articleSection\":[\"Fashion\",\"Menswear\",\"Shows\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-GB\"},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/germany.10magazine.com\/10-signals-defining-berlin-fashion-week-aw26\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/germany.10magazine.com\/10-signals-defining-berlin-fashion-week-aw26\/\",\"name\":\"10 Signals Defining Berlin Fashion Week AW26 - 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