BIG IN JAPAN: Viviano’s designer talks Tokyo Fashion Week and what’s next for his brand

New York, London, Milan and Paris are the cities that we all think of when it comes to the industry’s biannual, week-long fashion events designed to showcase designer’s new collections. But head to burgeoning fashion hubs across the globe and you’ll find cutting edge runway presentations, boundary-pushing fits and artistic energy worthy of our attention.

Case in point: Tokyo Fashion Week which took place in March. Here, designers are revered for  blending avant-garde drama with wearable elegance. And the designer providing the masterclass in this balancing act is VIVIANO.

Since launching the label in 2015 – and subsequently winning the Tokyo Fashion Award in 2022  – designer Viviano Sue has captivated the industry.  Known for architectural silhouettes and a fearless approach to tulle and volume, the brand has now pivoted from its vibrant, floral roots  to a more ‘Neo-Romantic’ aesthetic explored in stark monochrome, resulting in frilled, lace-heavy, ruffle-driven pieces, worn in recent months by Lady Gaga, Bad Bunny and Heated Rivalry’s Hudson Williams.

Following the label’s latest showcase, we spoke with the designer about the impact of Tokyo Fashion Week and what lies ahead for the brand’s next chapter…

What’s the concept behind VIVIANO?

The concept is “chaos in shimmer through the veil of order.” I’m drawn to combining seemingly unrelated, even conflicting elements into a cohesive whole. Within each collection, you’ll find contrasts, strength and softness, masculinity and femininity, everyday sportswear and couture-level craftsmanship. What may initially feel like chaos is ultimately shaped into harmony.

What are some challenges you’ve faced while building your brand internationally?

At this stage, increasing visibility and awareness is really important, making sure more people can see and discover the brand. That said, our overseas PR is gradually falling into place, and we’ve recently started to gain attention from celebrity stylists and international media. We’re continuing to build step by step, with the goal of introducing VIVIANO to a wider global audience

Why is a fashion platform like Tokyo Fashion Week so important for brands not based in fashion cities?

For brands that are not yet widely recognised, a platform like Tokyo Fashion Week is og incredibly valuable. It offers visibility, structure and access to both local and international audiences. However, for more established brands, one of the key challenges is timing. The schedule can be relatively late, especially for Autumn/Winter, which makes it difficult to align with international showroom calendars and global market timelines. So while it’s an important platform, there are still practical challenges when it comes to integrating it into a broader international strategy.

What was your best moment of this season’s Tokyo Fashion Week?

Of course, our show was the highlight for me. It was incredibly special to see the response, some media even described it as one of the most talked-about shows of the week. I always hope that our show becomes one of the defining moments of the season.

What was the inspiration behind your latest collection?

I titled this collection “Portrait of Her, Unnamed” because I wanted to push the core sense of chaos within the brand to its fullest extent this season. This collection represents the VIVIANO girl in my mind right now, completely free, not bound by anything. Rather than imposing my own interpretation, I want the audience to experience the collection in their own way, and to reflect on the emotions it evokes for them.

What’s next for VIVIANO?

Right now, the priority is strengthening our global visibility through PR, allowing more people to discover us. We’re looking toward Paris Fashion Week, not necessarily through a runway show, but by presenting our collections in showrooms. Tokyo remains our home and the core of our runway presentations for now, but Paris is an important step in expanding our international presence.

Text BETHANY BERKELEY

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