5 Juli 2026 |
The Spring/Summer ‘27 mens’ shows took place during the hottest week France has seen since records began in 1947. Despite the scorching conditions, designers presented inspiring and uplifting collections that provided a welcome respite from the current global chaos. Here are ten of our standout moments from a scorching week in the fashion calendar…
Dries Van Noten’s Featherlight Dream
Juian Klausner’s SS27 collection for Dries Van Noten was as light as it was colourful and filled with sensuality. Though Paris was burning – almost 100 degrees in temperature, cargo pants, sequinned vests and light parker jackets seemed to flit and fly down the runway, as though a cool breeze were in the air. Inspired by ‘Afternoon of a Faun,’ a 1867 poem by Stéphane Mallarmé, Klausner leans into the colours found in the forest, the sky and the water. Sultry peaches, neutrals, earthy greens, sunset yellows and oranges are presented in the blocks of colour, gradients and prints.
Dropped shoulders, slouchy sleeves, and silky shorts gave the collection a carefree, easy going vibe. Elsewhere pieces, inspired by lingerie added a touch of intimacy, however, it was Klausner’s flawless tonal layering that carried the day.
Michael Rider Debuts Menswear at Celine
For his first menswear collection, Michael Rider reflects on dressing for oneself, resulting in a variety of different looks that could be disconcerting to the untrained eye. However, in the chaos lies what it really means to ‘dress for yourself’ as there is something for everyone here. For the rock enthusiast, or the preppy guy, the bohemian and the artsy man. Key pieces in the collection included cocoon coats, impeccably detailed summer shirts, and fluid, tailored trousers, which balanced structured lines with a subtle Victorian influence.
Though a very individualistic collection, a sense of community could be seen in the sartorial styling present in each look, while jewelled brooches, colourful cummerbunds, oversized wooden beads added the perfect finishing touches.
Louis Vuitton Took to the Waves
It was all surfs up this season at Pharrell’s SS27 show. From LV branded surfboards to wetsuits and Monogrammed diving gear, each look was designed to take you from business dress to beach ready with ease. The set design alone — featuring a towering artificial wave and sand runway, was enough to make showgoers want to jump in. Models strolled past dressed in ribbed cashmere jackets, bouclé wool robe coats, double breasted suits and Logoed beach shorts. Pharrell continued his modern dandy narrative, this time round he focused on the freedom that comes with life as a surfer.
Accessories, which are consistently a highlight of the Louis Vuitton runway, featured multiple LV emblazoned duffel bags, leather Speedy bags, and leather caps alongside the highly debated Combi. A premium rendition of the classic skate shoe, the Combi boasts pairs in luxurious leathers and the brand’s Monogram canvas. While the internet has colloquially dubbed the sneakers “Fancy Vans,” Pharrell clarified that the design actually draws inspiration from his archival collaborations with Louis Vuitton under Marc Jacobs’ creative tenure.
Soshiotsuki’s Salary Man Goes on Holiday
Building on his 1980’s Japanese salaryman lexicon, which won him the LVMH Prize in 2025, Soshi Ostuki’s SS27 collection presented his salaryman in a more relaxed state. Exploring the narrative that this corporate worker, seemingly used to structured suiting and rigid lines, has gone on holiday, we saw more relaxed silhouettes come into play.
Deconstructing his signature “soft suit” jackets, Otsuki stripped away the linings and paired them with fluid, baggy pleated trousers, knee length dress shorts, or pyjama shorts curved at the hem. Elsewhere Henley shirts were paired with slouchy suits and pyjama sets were styled with Knotted knit handkerchiefs. Otsuki drew inspiration from Salvatore Dali melting surrealism, transforming the oppression of the summer heat into distorted details. From creased collars to drooping lapels and partially unravelled belts, there was a fair share of intentionally rumpled tailoring.
Rick Owens is All Puffed Up
Not shying away from the Paris heat, Rick Owens unveiled his newest collection in his usual outdoor setting in Palais de Tokyo. Models sauntered down the suspended steel runway in the technical meets avant garde designs that Owen’s is so well known for. At the core of the collection was an adidas collection centred on keeping cool in the midst of heat. Inflated jackets and shorts built with adidas’s Climacool technology and three striped sweatpants balanced low on the waist, were contrasted with swollen cabans and second skin t-shirts. Owens also introduced a new high performance adidas x Rick Owens running shoe slated for 2027.
Owens offered his own distinct take on compression and tension this season. The lineup paired lightweight cotton poplin outerwear, complete with modular leather epaulettes with dramatic, sharp shouldered tailoring in lustrous Italian silk.
Feng Chen Wang Partners with Under Armour
Congratulations are in order for Feng Chen Wang as she announced a new position as ‘Long term Creative Partner at Under Armour,’ with key pieces in her SS27 collection, teasing the upcoming capsule. Chinese cultural motifs were subtly woven throughout the modern, deconstructed lineup, where cheongsam inflected dresses, frog fastenings, and trailing ribbons were combined with sharp tailoring and streetwear codes. This hybrid energy extended to the denim pieces, which were heavily emphasised and finished with a high shine metallic glaze.
Expanding on the East meets West dialogue, several pieces included botanical contact printing of flowers, giving them a new lease of life on leather vests. The collection marks a triumphant opening act, setting a high bar for what’s to come from the Under Armour partnership.
Amiri Explores American Pleasures
Referencing the 1980’s classic ‘American Gigolo’, Mike Amiri turned his eye to the rituals of dressing up, reinterpreting them with a laid back, Californian sensibility. Relaxed tailoring was central to the collection this season, softened shoulders on suit jackets that fall loosely on the body with trousers to match. Subverting heritage American sportswear, the collection elevated staples like trucker jackets and tailored blazers through rigorous material innovation. Menswear classics — including glen plaid, herringbone, and pinstripes received a modern, metallic treatment. Layered alongside silk, linen, and lurex, giving them a fluid, luminous quality that reacted to movement.
Continuing the collection’s character driven narrative, AMIRI debuts the Biscotto bag, gently into the shape of a fortune cookie, available in buttery leather, liquid chainmail, and shimmering crystal finishes.
Sacai Introduces the New Classics
Chitose Abe threw convention to the wind this season, her SS27 collection, adequately titled ‘The New Classics’ sought to open up classic menswear traditions, gut them and transform them into something new, which she did triumphantly. Combining old school tailoring with contemporary utility in that seamless hybridisation she’s renown for, Abe slashed open the lapels of classic Brooks Brother blazers to reveal the raw lining beneath. Silk ties were similarly transformed and draped as swathes of striped fabric over blazer shoulders, or refashioned into long, loose cravats knotted effortlessly low on the chest.
Along with the collection came a brand new collaborative debut with heritage footwear brand Birkenstock, featuring two silhouettes, the Aoyama 107 and the Cassette 75, each available in taupe and black. The first, named after Sacai’s Tokyo flagship location, combines the single strap of the 1963 Madrid sandal — featuring an updated Big Buckle, with the double strap frame of the iconic 1973 Arizona. The latter, named for Sacai’s Paris headquarters, beautifully fuses the Arizona’s straps with the closed toe silhouette of the Boston clog, which hits its 50th anniversary milestone this year.
Egonlab Finds Peace in the Chaos
Clothes took on the form of armour this season at Egonlab, as design duo Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix’s sole focus was on crafting a collection that reflected peace amidst chaos. Playful accents emerged via striped, upturned cuffs on shirts, while thigh length shorts were casually styled with flip flops and denim was layered for more exaggerated proportions.
Eccentricity peaked with shirtless models accessorised in antique frame necklaces, micro shorts, oversized hats, and heavy boots. Balancing the collection’s bolder moments was a series of softer textures which made an appearance towards the end of the show, featuring lace boxers paired with bombers, a lightweight scalloped lace dress, and a bowed vest worn with high waist linen trousers.
Adidas Brings Performance Arts back to Paris
In celebration of its iconic sneaker the ‘Stan Smith’, adidas opened a two day residency in the heart of Paris, welcoming friends and collaborators of the brand to interpret the Stan Smith legacy through creative expression. From the entryway to the top floor, the multi-level residency was an immersive event at its core. Guests entered through a room filled with home goods displays curated by Mathilde Vallantin Dulac, complete with take home green branded items, before heading up to the top floor where Yung Lean turned the walls into a live spray paint installation.
The curation also featured Cyprien Gaillard’s cinematic piece ‘Untitled’, capturing the natural drift of white smoke from a railroad tunnel, and Thibault Grevet’s studio setup, where he previewed his upcoming book ‘Far’ and shot live portraits of the artists. After watching Mark Gonzales shred in an indoor skatepark built directly into the space, attendees flocked to Guillermo Santomà’s white clothed sitting room — a minimalistic lounge where guests could cool off and catch up. Elsewhere in the residence, James Blake held an intimate session, performing new and old works.
Text Bethany Berkeley
