7 July 2026 |
“Modewoche” was back in Berlin. Yes, people still call it that here. Refreshing and local, similar to a lot of what has been offered to the attendees, who – besides German press and talents – included the likes of Bottega’s former RTW designer and Creative Director Milan of Perfect Magazine Edward Buchanan and A Magazine Curated By’s editor-in-chief Blake Abbie, as international guests invited by the BFW organisation itself.
As to be expected and desired for Germany’s capital, minds were open and schedules were full. Between July 2nd and 5th, many established names returned to the runway, while some opted for presentations instead (Kasia Kucharska took her signature latex technique to the next level). Which brands left an impression? Had people talking and posting? Here are the 10 moments from Berlin’s SS27 season that stuck with us.
SF1OG LITERALLY PAVING THE WAY
Last season, Rosa Marga Dahl and Jacob Langmeyer wowed the crowds with their 90s-infused ode to Indie Sleaze and, undoubtedly in my opinion, the best soundtrack of the entire AW26 season in Berlin. Hence, big shoes to fill, especially if they’re your own. Speaking of footwear, for SS27 models were very light on their feet in ballet slippers. Still the light grey, concrete-looking floor crumbled underneath them, gradually revealing a shiny black surface. The set design, courtesy of SF1OG collaborator John Andrews, ties in with the collection’s overarching theme of perception. Is everything really as it seems? Some of the fashion transported that central question via light fabrics layered over even lighter ones, delicate lace hiding behind minimalist pieces as straps were falling off one, at times both, shoulders.
LAURA GERTE BRINGING HOUSE MUSIC TO THE HISTORIC BERLINER ENSEMBLE
Backstage right after the show, my first question for Laura Gerte was all about the music. It worked so well. Why? Because you wouldn’t expect to hear it in one of Germany’s leading theaters founded by none other than playwright Bertolt Brecht. So, the tone was set for a collection all about contrasts and constraints. SS27, entitled “Lost to Virtue”, is all about letting go of outdated values in our society, which manifested itself in the conscious lack of sewing patterns. Instead, Gerte opted for skillful draping, soft modular elements and signature straps and strings that hug and move with the body rather than constricting it. “The last three shows represent the triptych that’s womanhood,” she says. “SS26 was about vulnerability, followed by AW26 dealing with the dark side of femininity and today was about breaking free through the means of fashion.”
THE CRAFTSMANSHIP AT FRUCHÉ
Frank Aghuno’s SS27 collection marks his debut at Berlin Fashion Week. A definite highlight, his designs have always been all about identity, exploring the tension between heritage and individuality. At the core of his work is craftsmanship, which he strongly demonstrated on Sunday morning with his latest collection “Kleg”. The intention behind the collection was to question and challenge ideas of perfection and conformity, especially in terms of the body, as “Kleg” is a Nigerian slang word referring to knock-knees. Dresses and shirts in colourful Gingham opened the show, showcasing draping and tying techniques bridging the gap between classic and playful. Eventually, bold prints and expressive colours had to make way for more earthy tones and textures, once again proving the designer’s commitment to honing your craft. Certain pieces were made in collaboration with local artisans, and in the past, Fruché has worked with women networks supporting the passing on of crafting skills.
BARRAGÁN SPLITTING OPINIONS AT THE MEXICAN EMBASSY
If we were to hand out superlatives, “most talked about” would go to Mexico City based label Barragán. Known to be provocative and positioning itself in somewhat of a grey area between fashion and art, designer Victor Barragán returned to the runway after a three year break. Neon colours, print t-shirts and sportswear-turned-clubwear infused with queer aesthetics set in a post-Trump (“SS30”) world. Many praised the show, describing it as exciting and different where “finally something happens”. But is showing harsh realities via the vehicle of a fashion show to a crowd with lives presumably way more fortunate and less tragic really worth applauding? The line between social commentary and shock value for the sake of entertainment is thin, and the fashion crowd was definitely in two camps that evening.
THE FOCUS ON NEW-GEN DESIGNERS
Hardly any fashion week has as many events dedicated to emerging talent as Berlin does. A deed that shall not go unnoticed. Der Berliner Salon set at Schloss Charlottenburg and Raum Berlin at John Jahr Haus both provided space for creative presentation, expression and conversation to a large group of over 50 young aspiring designers and brands. Berlin Curated staged a show at Feuerle Puig House in collaboration with creative agency 0049x, where the works of Nele Hurtienne and Vivien Vetterkind stood out in a highly skilled and competitively talented array of 13 young designers selected by Christiane Arp together with Josepha Rodriguez and Sonja Hodzode.
A TIE BETWEEN MILK OF LIME AND MARTIN QUAD
What’s the point of fashion week in Europe’s picture-book melting pot Berlin without any outside influences? For SS27, we have to give it to both Milk of Lime and Martin Quad for feeding the predominantly German crowd some of the fashion they usually have to travel for. Julia Ballardt and Nico Verhaegen, the German-Belgian duo behind Milk of Lime, can’t deny their educational roots. One look at the visibly cut and treated fabrics made to layer in an effortlessly cool way only graduates of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp could do. Add some strings and belts wrapped around the waist, and you got the key elements of one of the top collections of this week. Danish Martin Quad’s SS27 designs came straight from Pitti in Milan and brought exactly that unmistakenly clean elegance you’d expect. Obvious simplicity met hidden details (heels open in the back, one-legged-tights), all pulled off in a matter of 24 hours. Chapeau to Juncker who took his final round at Kronprinzen Palais with a red scissor still in his right back pocket.
MARKE AND DAGGER MAKING A LOCATION THEIR OWN
When a space is given to you, it takes clear vision and a strong storyline to make it your own. Especially if you’re not the only one occupying that space. Let’s take Mario Keine’s Marke, for instance. Remaining poetic wherever it shows, this season’s buttoned suiting, high collars, coin bracelets and pearl embellishments let you forget all about the 70s German architecture time capsule that is the Internationale Congress Centrum (ICC). Similarly to Marke, streetwear brand Dagger also shared its venue with others. Luke Raine’s collection was deeply rooted in youth culture with hints of the 80s in the colour palette and that truly worn-in aesthetic only a night-out with good music could get you. The soundtrack – Blur, Madonna, Robyn – was integral, not only since models wore Apple headphones (an ongoing collaboration), but also evoking a fond memory of Raine’s. “When I was a teenager, I had to beg my grandmother to buy me an iPod. She saved up and bought it, “ he shared backstage. “Growing up, it was my safety. I would listen to music and imagine my fashion show.”
RAIN AT MALAIKARAISS
As I hurried downwards towards Pier 61 that separates East Side Gallery from the Spree, I could feel that certain kind of breeze. The second everyone was sat and music cued the models in, it started drizzling, and then it almost poured. Needless to say, we all stayed in place, because Malaika Raiss was celebrating her 15th anniversary with this collection – still facing the same industry challenges, but also still driven by that same passion. “Playground Love” reworked signature pieces in a neutral colour palette and reduced cuts that had pops of colour and texture added exactly in the right places. Thematically, it was about first crushes. But with wind and rain as unpaid actors, the materials got to flow, hug if not cling to the bodies, and through that, every look felt like it was for the woman on the go. “Berlin summer, always a bit dramatic, isn’t it?” she told me. “Once the adrenaline kicks in, you don’t think much anymore. The show was over and we all got emotional. I am so proud of what my team and I achieve, time and time again.”
HADERLUMP AND JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN WON HAIR & MAKEUP
When you build a world, even just for 10 minutes, every detail needs to tell the same story. Location, casting, music as well as hair and makeup. Standouts of this season were Johann Erhardt’s Haderlump and Arashi Yanagawa’s John Lawrence Sullivan. Saturday evening at the famous Adlon, Haderlump Atelier teamed up with Anastasia Beverly Hills to accentuate the models’ facial bone structure and deepen their gaze. Hair was sleek and futuristically arranged with silver ornaments, matching the vibe of “Atrium” where a Dune-esque aesthetic meets core elements of late 90s, early 2000s Japanese fashion. After its Berlin debut for AW26, JSL came back for SS27 with a collection entitled “Androgyny”. The opening look, red slicked back hair, chiselled jawline and tailored suit, was a clear nod to David Bowie, as Arashi Yanagawa confirms for me backstage. Expectedly, traditional aspects of womens- and menswear literally juxtaposed each other in every look, while snake skin patterns on shoes symbolize transformation and renewal.
RICHERT BEIL’S 10 GEBOTE
After last season’s dinner extravaganza, it was time to bid. Jale Richert and Michele Beil send out invitations to join them at their store “Apotheke” in Muskauer Strasse, Berlin-Kreuzberg, where one, if lucky enough, could acquire 10 handcrafted pieces out of their latest collection. From ceramic panties and belt bags to linen shirts and latex aprons, just fill out the transparent bidding sheet provided at the entrance and hope for the best. All 10 commandments were spread out like a feast, colour-coordinated with black and white tableware and cloth. By the way, the aforementioned panties are by artist Jana Francke. Drinks were served in test tubes along with minimalist-looking snacks to nibble on, courtesy of Caro Schechtner.
GMBH’S 10TH ANNIVERSARY AS THE GRAND FINALE
Benjamin A. Huseby and Serhat Isik delved deep into the archives – their own and others. To commemorate 10 years of GmbH, the design duo delved deep into Berlin’s fashion history, going back to the 1920s when couturiers such as Joe Strassner were leading voices in fashion. Never heard as much as her contemporary Elsa Schiaparelli and ultimately forced to flee to England due to the Nazi regime, her story resonated deeply with the designers and the message they are continuously pushing forward: freedom of expression. “Desired Paths” revisits sportswear-inspired classics, brought back the knee-high-boots, and presented adaptations of 1920s-silhouettes as well as timelessly tailored vests and jackets. Ugg was the exclusive footwear partner, with the custom designed boots destined to be sold out. Set in the backyard of the Kronprinzen Palais as the sun set over Berlin, fashion week surely ended in a grand finale.
Text LISA ZIRNGAST
